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    3. 桂林之象鼻山

      發布時間:2017-11-29 12:28 編輯:千家文

        再次來到桂林已是初冬季節,天氣預報北方有寒流,大風降溫,濟南的溫度已接近零度,桂林雖然沒那么冷,但天氣有點陰沉。從機場去賓館的路上,專車司機說,你們來遲了些,要是一周前來,還能聞到桂花的香味,我抬頭看了看路兩邊的桂花樹,這種又叫木犀的常綠闊葉喬木依舊蔥蘢,但桂花確已不見了蹤影,想象著前幾天還一樹繁花,香氣馥郁的樣子,內心多少有些遺憾。

        遺憾的不僅是沒聞到桂花香,桂林的水也沒有了夏天的充沛,漓江雖然還在靜靜流淌,但很多地方露出了干涸的河床,沒有了水的滋潤,桂林仿佛也失去了不少的靈性。

        幾年前的暑假,和好友美猴及三位女士結伴同游桂林,白天放浪山水,晚上街頭豪飲,逸興遄飛,激情滿懷,給我留下了無比美好的印象,這次重來,是和姐姐帶著父母一塊來的。父母早已退休多年,在家過著三飽倆倒,安逸平和的生活,安逸雖則安逸,但生活過于平庸,我對他們說,還是出去走走吧,老在家里,過一天和過三百六十四天沒啥區別,反復動員多次,終于成行。

        到了桂林的當天下午,我便帶他們到了象鼻山公園。

        象鼻山位于漓江與桃花江的交匯處,因為山體前端有一個天然形成的圓洞,江水漫過洞口,從遠處看,頗像一頭正在漓江飲水的大象而得名。豐水季節,江水浩蕩,大象的身子浸在水中,山映斜陽,波光粼粼,山的倒影躍然水上,確有一種靈動的意境。已故國家主席楊尚昆曾說,要在象鼻山前照過相,才算來桂林,如今,這里成了桂林城的標志。

        由于正處于旱季,象鼻山的風景大打折扣,漓江游船依然往來如梭,但水位只有以前的三分之一,另一側的桃花江已近似枯竭,游人在河床中間悠閑的散步,或撿拾散落在沙中的貝殼。水月洞中沒了水倒真成了一個洞,露出底部坑洼不平的地面,此時的大象與其是說大象,倒不如說是更像一只匍匐在江邊的刺猬。沒有了水的溫柔,水的氤氳,水的環繞,象鼻山變得平庸而粗糲,遠不如北方的山高大,雄偉,耐看。

        但象鼻山的樹木依舊蓬勃的生長著,枝干虬結的樟樹,留著胡須的小葉榕,巨人手掌一般的棕櫚樹,高大筆直的云杉,幾十根抱團在一起,挺拔翠綠的鳳尾竹,以及擠擠挨挨的灌木叢,葳蕤成一片綠的王國,看慣了北方的枯枝敗葉,咋一見到這濃濃的綠色,心里頓時敞亮起來。

        山不是太高,卻頗為陡峭,爬上去也要費些功夫。上次和美猴前來的時候,在山上邂逅兩個貴州女孩,正舉著手機,有些艱難的自拍合影照,我主動上去幫忙,借此多聊了幾句。她們都是貴州大學大二的學生,一個學法律,一個學英文,倆人是高中好友,假期結伴前來桂林游玩,明天還要去陽朔。我夸她們倆勇氣可嘉,兩個女孩有些靦腆,又有些自豪,正聊得興起的時候,被美猴這廝不解風情的給拉走了,這次故地重游,不知怎的,突然想到了這事。

        山的一側有一座不大的寺廟,云峰寺,依山而建,幾間平平常常的廟舍,但香火不斷,遠遠的就能看到香燭繚繞,三三兩兩的游客正在上香。有三個高中生模樣的學生引起了我的注意,一個男孩,兩個女孩,男孩點燃一支香,虔誠的插在燭臺上,然后和兩個女孩一塊祭拜,不知道他們在祈求什么,愛情?學業?抑或其他解不開的煩惱?

        我本來也想去上一炷香的,人過中年以后,欲望越來越少,對身體和對家庭的關注倒是越來越多,但身體這事除了父母遺傳外,主要還是看個人的修行和作為,家庭和睦更是靠個人的用心,外力不可及也。求人不如求己,還是自身勉力而為吧,何況菩薩也忙,未必顧得上我們。

        緊鄰云峰寺是一座安靜的四合院,上下兩層,現成為太平天國農民起義紀念館,進去走馬觀花看了看。太平天國給我的印象不深,只知道洪秀全是廣東人,落魄小知識分子,因為屢次考試不第,心生不忿,徹底放棄 “孔孟之道”,轉向西方基督,成立“拜上帝教”,自稱“天王”,率領一眾暴徒,從南打到北,將大清帝國攪得雞犬不寧。

        對農民起義這事我向來無好感,歷史上殺人如麻,血流成河的事大都是他們干的,像將川人屠殺殆盡的大將張獻忠,像動不動就給人開天燈的東王楊秀清等等。仔細想來,所謂農民起義其實就是個偽命題,干這事的大都不是老實巴交的農民,參與者都是些農村破落戶,二流子,就像《水滸傳》里經常去大相國寺菜園子偷菜,被魯智深扔到糞坑里的那一眾小流氓。真正的農民但凡有二分地,便會把所有的力氣與精力都用在侍弄土地上,斷不會去做那燒殺搶掠,殺人越貨的惡事,所謂“有恒產者有恒心,無恒產者無恒心”,一所無有的人才會更加沒有底線,違背天良。

        從公園出來五點多了,天光依舊大亮,桂林的夜色似乎比濟南來得遲一些,此時心情仍然有點興奮,回賓館感覺有些早,意猶未盡,索性在這附近吃點飯,飯后再轉轉。于是給當地朋友周導打電話,問他公園周圍有沒有美味又實惠的飯店。很快,周導給我發來微信,很負責的給我推薦了了五家,分別是:小南國,金龍寨,椿記燒鵝,有飯,勾味王,并特別叮囑我,不要去公園附近的美食一條街,那都是出租車或者小三輪極力拉客推薦的,專宰外地游客。

        周導是我上次來桂林的導游兼專車司機,三十多歲,一米八左右的個子,干凈利落,結實而清秀,性格溫和儒雅,不多言不多語,非常善解人意,給人以信賴感,和他相處了短短五六天,我們便成了老朋友一般,這次來桂林,遇到麻煩事首先想到的就是他。

        從百度上搜了一下,這五家飯店大都在周圍幾百米到兩公里的范圍內,其中有飯最近,就在公園對面的一棟建筑的二樓,一側靠馬路,一側鄰桃花江。拾階而上,來到餐廳,選了一個鄰近馬路的餐位,一眼望出去,對面就是象鼻山公園,公園門口有數株上百年歷史,需幾人合抱的香樟樹,蒼勁樸拙,濃蔭匝地,游人就在樹下悠閑的漫步。正是下班時分,馬路上汽車,電動車,行人往來不絕,華燈初上,夜色闌珊,暮色籠罩下的桂林小城越發溫馨起來。

        點了酸菜魚,芋香排骨,蕨菜粉,蓮藕湯等四五個菜,要了幾瓶漓江啤酒,和父親,姐姐三人對飲起來,母親不喝酒,看著我們一臉的滿足,大概在她心里,不管吃什么,喝什么都所謂,只要我們在跟前,平平安安的,比什么都好。

        桂林的魚好,酸菜魚的味道很鮮,魚是漓江出產的活魚,體型瘦長,頭部扁圓,有兩根長須,吃起來滑膩筋道;芋香排骨是店里的招牌菜,芋頭選用廣西荔浦芋頭,個大得如同人的手臂,綿軟醇厚;蓮藕湯里的藕也不同于北方的藕,塊大味綿,幾乎可以當飯吃。最后,幾個人連主食都沒要,酒飽飯足,看看盤中的菜,也只是吃了有三分之二,確實惠而不費。

        晚上,沿著桃花江漫步,這里是桂林市的風景區,就像濟南的趵突泉,南京的夫子廟,江邊古樹參天,藤纏蔓繞,成為一道綠色長廊,更兼有各種彩燈置于樹梢,岸邊,水中,將白天灰突突的江面映襯得流光溢彩,火樹銀花,美倫美央。

        夜游漓江是桂林的一道招牌景點,美則美矣,只是價格貴了些,一個人要180元。我們幾人沒坐船,沿江而行可以看到同樣的景觀,想想也賺了。行走間,一條船不期然的經過,船頭及二樓甲板上占滿了好奇的游客,他們紛紛用手機記錄下這璀璨的美景,我望著他們,他們也望著岸邊的我,那一刻我突然想到了卞之琳的《斷章》,

        你站在橋上看風景

        看風景的人在樓上看你

        明月裝飾了你的窗子

        你裝飾了別人的夢

        我們都是匆匆的過客,今夜,我們不期然來到這里,彼此投下匆匆一瞥,此后,天涯海角,各奔東西。

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